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It is this appreciation of fashion art that has made Ahluwalia one of the most exciting young brands in London, a fact that was reaffirmed during London Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear. From its inception, the brand has upheld its commitment to sustainable production by using deadstock and recycled fabrics, which was emphasized during this show with fabrics from the Chloé brand. The collection is an ode to home, but more importantly, to what home means, both literally and emotionally. “You can feel at home surrounded by the right people. You can feel at home across the world.”
“I think at Burberry, we are definitely aware of what we present on the runway. We want it to look like a dream, but we also want it to seem like a real proposition for someone who wants to go there,” says Daniel Lee, Creative Director of Burberry. The designer played with the classic trench, transforming it into a charming cape with silky feathers at the neck, and drew inspiration from the brand’s military heritage to create deconstructed drummer boy jackets and sophisticated safari suits.
Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection in London was inspired by his research into the lives of the dapper novelist Radclyffe Hall and the sculptor Una, Lady Troubridge. On the other hand, for Simone Rocha, one of the central inspirations for her runway was dance, citing Michael Clark and Pina Bausch as influences. Additionally, the floral set design from Pina Bausch’s “Nelken” made a significant appearance, lending its floral motif to Rocha’s collection.
“I think the current situation requires us to scale things back a bit while the world is in transition. I believe fashion needs to realign itself in some way because we, as an industry, need to take a hard look at ourselves.” — JW Anderson
Prints
The textiles, prints, and knits seen at London Fashion Week by Ahluwalia evoked a suburban wallpaper, with glimmers of light reflecting off pools or the sea. The paisley print, with its iconic teardrop shape and intricate spiral designs, has experienced an exciting revival in JW Anderson’s Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection. This print, which once dominated the runways of the 60s and 70s, has returned with renewed energy and sophistication, reinterpreted to resonate with contemporary fashion.
Bottoms
Daniel Lee, Creative Director of Burberry, used matte pastel-colored leather in a Hume-style for fitted pants and cropped biker jackets. The low-rise, front-seamed pants and shorts, made of denim or drill, received a rugged protective treatment whose finish evocatively echoed the Hume canvas they were presented against.
Tops
Kent & Curwen showcased blue poplin shirts, some adorned with 3D rose appliqués, evoking a sense of nostalgia for British secondary school days. Rugby shirts and cricket sweaters—long-standing pillars of the brand—also took a prominent role, with the sweaters being reinvented in the brand’s first women’s wear show.
“We want to represent London now; we want to ensure that we maintain our heritage (we invented the preppy style in 1926, long before many other brands), but it has to be relevant to a new generation. For my son and his friends, for example, it has to make sense to them.” — Kent & Curwen
At Burberry, Bengal stripe shirts made a striking yet effortlessly achievable impact with the addition of a matching ruched scarf and a silver clip at the neck. Other clearly defined trending elements included ballet-style knit cardigans seen at Simone Rocha’s show and coats. Both were fitted and worn over tutus—giving the impression that the models were dancers in mid-rehearsal rushing out for a stage door rendezvous—these coats incongruously resembled formal tailcoats.
JW Anderson presented a dazzling display of optical illusions, where sweaters inflated to colossal dimensions, challenging the viewer’s perception. These sweaters, more akin to sculptures than garments, served as a backdrop for a series of material experiments that, under Anderson’s visionary direction, transformed the conventional into the extraordinary.
Vestidos
Masha Popova explored everyday little stories in her Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear show at London Fashion Week through jersey dresses with straps falling nonchalantly around the elbows and miniskirts partially sewn into longer, midi-length versions.
“It fascinates me when things get stuck or don’t quite fit. It’s as if they tell the story of a person’s day,” said Masha Popova.
In Burberry’s show, we saw how the Creative Director balanced sleek military silhouettes with long, flowing dresses and skirts in taupe, tangerine, or smoky blue, embellishing the collection with sequins. These sequins appeared in aquamarine, black, or silver for swingy flapper-style dresses, and in copper for a fitted tank top paired with military trousers.
Minidresses were transformed into oversized, sculptural works of art—thanks to JW Anderson—evoking wings in flight or moving sculptures. These creations, crafted by Anderson’s expert hand, were made from materials such as leather and cashmere, with Anderson challenging himself to create unique variations from a limited palette of resources.
Colores
Burberry’s iconic camel, red, and black check was prominently featured in details like built-in belts and also shone on a sleek cropped duffel. In a series of men’s looks, this pattern was adapted into various check styles on attractive field jackets, half-zip sweatshirts, and technical pants.
“We wanted to bring more optimism, a sense of joy, lightness, and summer to Burberry, which isn’t typically a summer brand. But color was still relevant. The muted tones continued to convey the feeling of being outdoors, of things that don’t seem too precious. You can wear them both day and night. That’s what Burberry is for,” says Daniel Lee, Creative Director of Burberry.
When it came to delicate dresses, Erdem led the way with period shades like eau-de-nil, peach, and silver lamé, followed by a range of more abstract creations in deep greens and vibrant pink.
